Saturday, December 29, 2007

With my eyes still blurry from the night before when we closed the bar down and ran up a 4,500 sheckle bill, we headed out into the Judean desert. We carved through rolling, rock covered hills, passing through dusty roadblocks and check points. We descended to the lowest point on earth and watched as Bedouin on the roadside turned around from a hostile and uninhabitble desert.

We were headed to Masada, Herod’s stronghold perched atop a mountain overlooking the Dead Sea that served as the last stand of the last free Jews on earth during the first century. The sun was hot and radiated off the ancient stones, your skin tingled as the arid desert dried it out. From the ruins of his palace you could see the mountains of Jordan across the Dead Sea that seemed to bleed into the sky in a sweltering haze. The bright white rock of the desert glowed in the punishing sun and even hundreds of feet above it, caused you to squint as you searched for the horizon above the fast evaporating and shrinking sea.

We then drank from the waterfalls of Ein Gedi where David convinced King Sol that he wasn’t the enemy of Israel. We swam in the spring and were surprised by the luke warm waterfall. After that we bobbed in the Dead Sea and I stung our broken flesh, even my ass stung which gave me cause for concern. After a quick jump in the famous Dead Sea mud and a requisite mud fight, we washed off in sulfer water and headed back to Jerusalem. Like the night before, it was the time of my life, it was then that I received the following email.


Sadly, grandma is slipping away. She has been deteriorating daily. More and more stroke damage becomes apparent. Though she still recognizes us, she can barely respond. She can't eat or drink, as she can't swallow. The option is life support, or letting her just slip away quietly. Jean as we know her is gone. Jeannie and Janny are here.

What you can do, is go to the Wall and pray; give thanks for her life and all the blessings she has been for us. Your grandmother, the enthusiastic traveler, would want you to experience your trip to the fullest. And remember, you did make sure to visit her a lot before you left.

Love Mom and Dad.

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